There was still about 8' of the base, the thickest part, of the big tree I felled last year that I didn't get bucked before the snows were too thick.
The hardest part about bucking something so thick is the pinching. If the log were perfectly straight lying on perfectly flat ground, you couldn't just cut down through it for two reasons. First, the cut isn't infinitely thin, so the gap it's leaving behind tends to pinch inward on the blade. Second, even if it didn't, you can't cut down to the ground because your blade will dig into the ground and that's bad for the blade and bad for your safety. Once the ground isn't perfectly level or the log isn't perfectly straight, these factors can usually be magnified in intensity.
The best solution is to prop the log up so you're lopping off an end which is up in the air. Then you can cut straight down. The weight of the piece you're lopping off is pulling away from the cut, not pushing in towards it, so it's not pinching.
This year, the wood has dried a little so it was a little easier to move but it was still too heavy for me to lift an end up onto something. However, I had a brilliant idea for a solution that worked quite wonderfully well:
The last cut was still a bitch to do because it was cutting a three foot log in half so neither half was able to sit up on something with the other half hanging off, so I had to have it poised between both ramps and then cut, turn, cut, turn, cut, turn to avoid pinching. My saw got a bit tired of the job doing this and started giving off smoke. I cleaned it out and tuned it up twice but in the end I had to use a wedge to split the last bits of the cut. I'll have to check to see if the saw is all right later, after it's cooled down and I've rested up.
The ramp technique really helped so well I will probably use it even for logs I could lift, because, why lift when it's easier to roll?